WATERCOLOR UNLEASHED + GOUACHE – Suggested Supply Lists
Julie Gilbert Pollard, Instructor
JulieGilbertPollard@cox.net www.JulieGilbertPollard.com
This watercolor workshop will incorporate an introduction to gouache. Using opaque watercolor/gouache is OPTIONAL for this class.
I use gouache in two basic ways – both to be introduced in class:
- As an addition to traditional transparent watercolor where the goal is to incorporate opaque watercolor/gouache when needed and for the painting to still have the look of a traditional watercolor…
Regardless of my intent for the finished work, I always begin with transparent – or translucent – washes. Therefore, if you are more interested in this first option, it is not necessary to have a full palette of gouache colors unless you really want to – because you can add a little watercolor to gouache white for some opaque finishing touches, when needed.
- As a gouache painting from start to finish where the opaque passages allow the transparent/translucent underpainting to show through, but the opaque nature of the gouache to be quite evident. For this option you will want to have a more comprehensive palette of gouache colors. Note – you can still incorporate some of your traditional watercolors.
The choice is yours. NOTE: this is a SUGGESTED list only – if you have your own favorites (colors, paper, etc.) that differ from mine, please feel free to use them – in addition or instead. You are welcome to use what you already have!
TRADITIONAL WATERCOLOR LIMITED PALETTE:
A basic, comprehensive palette of colors should include a warmer and cooler version of each of the primary colors. The following list of basic colors follows this criterion. Though you do NOT need to have the same colors or brands that I use, my favorite limited palette is listed below, in case you would like to have that info. Most are Winsor & Newton – exceptions are noted after the color:
YELLOW
Winsor Yellow
New Gamboge Yellow (Daniel Smith)
Indian Yellow
RED
Scarlet Lake (Holbein) OR Quinacridone Red
Permanent Rose (Quinacridone Rose)
Quinacridone Magenta
BLUE
Cobalt Blue (Sennelier)
Cerulean Blue
Prussian Blue (Sennelier)
OPTIONAL – one “non-color” such as Indigo, Payne’s Gray, Black, or Burnt Umber to use for a mono-chromatic study – though not necessarily to be used in this class.
OPAQUE-WATERCOLOR/GOUACHE COLOR PALETTE – I have a full palette of opaque-watercolor/gouache colors – and I have listed them ALL below. But that doesn’t mean you need all of them!
Because this class is meant to be an introduction to gouache AND used in conjunction with traditional watercolor, the number of opaque colors absolutely needed for this class is just one – WHITE.
If you would like to expand your palette further, I recommend adding the ones that are underlined.
If you are only interested in primary colors you’ll find them at the top of each – and listed as such.
NOTE: some I have listed are labeled watercolor and some as gouache – please see notations after the colors (if you use the Holbein brand you will find several opaque colors in their watercolor line that are NOT labeled as gouache even though they are opaque. Additionally, Jaune Brillant No1 watercolor and Jaune Brillant No1 gouache are NOT the same colors, even though they share the same name. Feel free to use other brands. All colors listed below are Holbein, simply because that’s the brand I currently use:
PRIMARY or PERMANENT WHITE – both are Titanium White, and I’m not sure of the difference…
ACRYLIC GOUACHE – Primary or Permanent White – acrylic gouache is NOT the same as Gouache – this is OPTIONAL
YELLOW or Yellow-ish
Lemon Yellow Primary (Holbein gouache)
Naples Yellow (Holbein watercolor)
Jaune Brillant No 1 (Holbein watercolor)
Jaune Brillant No 1 (Holbein gouache)
Jaune Brillant No 2 (Holbein gouache)
Marigold (Holbein gouache)
Cadmium Yellow Orange (Holbein gouache)
RED or Red-ish
Primary Magenta Primary (Holbein gouache)
Cadmium Red (Holbein gouache)
Shell Pink (Holbein watercolor)
Lilac (Holbein watercolor)
BLUE or Blue-ish
Primary Cyan (Holbein gouache)
Lavender (Holbein watercolor)
Cerulean Blue (Holbein gouache)
Prussian Blue (Holbein gouache)
Aqua Blue (Holbein gouache)
BRUSHES – use your favorites – these are mine:
- #12 round Mimik Kolinsky (by Creative Mark – Jerry’s Artarama and Amazon) – this is my new favorite for both mediums.
- ½”, ¾”, & 1″ Aquarelle (flat brush with beveled tip to the handle), nylon or “blend” (no particular brand) – for both mediums
- #8, 10, 12 or 14 round (Kolinsky sable, nylon or synthetic/natural blend – a favorite of mine is Connoisseur Kolinsky sable #8 – for watercolor, not gouache)
- Round Sumi bamboo – I use Royal & Langnickel LB2 (⅝” hair length) & Connoisseur Red Pony Round 8610-2 (1” hair length)
- #4 and/or smaller or larger sizes “Quill”, AKA mop – Raphael, Isabey, Rosemary and other brands
- Winsor & Newton Artists’ Watercolour Sable # 3- or 4-Pointed Round (“pointed round” is longer hair than “round”)
- 2″ wash or Hake
SUPPORT – the surface upon which to paint – watercolor paper, watercolor canvas, clay board, etc.:
- 100% rag, 140 lb. or 300 lb. cold press or rough – such as Arches (I use 300 lb. cold press or 140 Lb. rough – I don’t care for Arches 140 lb. CP, but many do), Saunders Waterford, Canson Moulin du Roy, etc.
- “Quarter sheet” (11×15) or “half sheet” (15×22) is best for a classroom setting (FYI “full sheet” = 22×30). I usually demonstrate on 11×14 or 10×14 block, a portable size for class work and easily framed.
- I also love to paint on archival panels such as watercolor canvas board, multi-media boards, or other rigid panels that I’ve pre-coated with watercolor ground to prepare the surface for water-media. These sturdy, rigid supports allow paintings to be framed without mat or glass. FYI, to frame without glass, the finished paintings must be sealed with varnish or cold wax – cold wax is what I’ve been using lately.
MISCELLANEOUS MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT:
- Watercolor palette with lid or personal choice – I use a Mijello/Homee 18 well travel palette.
- Gouache palette – I use the same type of palette as above for my gouache paints – for a limited number of colors, just use a white plate or plastic re-purposed lid or similar.
- Natural sponge
- LARGE water container
- 2B drawing pencils, or personal choice
- Pencil sharpener
- Eraser: “Vanish” eraser (Jerry’s Artarama), “Click eraser”, gum eraser or kneadable eraser
- Sketch book of your choice
- Extra pieces of “wc” paper or wc tablet – my fave is Strathmore Visual Journal – 9×12, 140 lb. watercolor (NOT the multi-media option)
- Spray bottle – I often use eyeglasses cleaner spray bottles because of their fine mist spray. The Chroma Atelier Water Sprayer, 8 oz bottle is also a good one – available from Blick.
- I add Gum Arabic or glycerin to my spray bottle to help keep the gouache from drying out – though I’m not sure how effective it is.
- Glycerin – after a painting session I coat my brushes with glycerin to help keep them from drying out. Additionally, coat the threads of watercolor tubes to help keep the caps from sticking.
- White facial tissues – non-lotion
- Drawing board and binder clips – I clip my paper to a piece of “plexi-glass” or a watercolor block backing.
- Old towel, bath size or larger – white or neutral color is best – or a blotting surface of your choice
- Pad of tracing paper – 11×14 to cover quarter sheet watercolor paper
- Dura Lar Wet Media Acetate – optional – I order from Dick Blick
- Water soluble pen/black (I use Expo Vis-à-Vis Wet Erase) is helpful for use with the Wet Media Acetate – optional